Day 3 (Donostia – Zarautz): I am alive

In the morning I made breakfast for the girls. I was awake early as usual and, like I did as a student as well, they slept in. The smell of breakfast woke one up and we had a nice chat until the rest came with sleepy eyes. I sad goodbye after a while, since I wanted to be on my own again.

On the way towards the beach where the trail continues, I decided to stop in a coffee shop to write. The coffee was good, the place the typical new age hipster coffee shop. The sun came out. A women and a men sat next to my table and I asked her if we want to close the tarp. I first wasn’t sure to ask by come on, why not? They appreciated my idea and we enjoyed the warm sun on a mild day. We started to chat and I learned a lot from how San Sebastian (Donostia) changed over the years. They both knew each other from childhood. She stayed all her life and he moved to Sydney, Australia, to become a high rated stylist. They explained me, since the it is getting more expensive to live in the city, the average age raises. Young people cant afford the rent and the standard of living.

I thanked for the great conversation and went to the beach. It was a great feeling to feel the warm sand between my tows. To breath in deeply the salty ocean smell. So much reminded me of my family vacations in France and still, I was present in the moment and soaked all the energy in.

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Back on the trail, i followed a few dirt rounds winding up the hilly coastline. Always having the view out to the ocean, to the infinite horizon. I passed several little farms, listening to the birds singing their concert, breath in the smell of roses along the way. What a beautiful freckle piece of the earth.

After a 1-2 hours, I descended into the first small villages along the trail. Many towns are build around bays along the coast. While walking, a young couple walked towards me and asked if I am on the camino. They wanted to figure out if its possible to bike this section since, they are riding their bikes from Bilbao to INDONESIA!!!! They met in the states and have been living in different places around the world and now, decided to do this amazing trip. You can follow them here. (I know two more adventurous hikers from the PCT with a similar idea to Bangkog, check them out here)

We wished us a safe trip and I continued on my path. One more section out of town, up the hill through a big area of wine fields and back down to my destination, Zarautz.


And yes, this green area is a golf court. I am still kind of disturbed why it needs a golf court there but I would figure it out soon enough.
For the night, i checked in in the only hostel. Family owned, it is one of the nicest hostel I have stayed so far. As usual friendly staff, really clean, big enough rooms, key locks in case you forgot to bring your own, a well supplied kitchen, a beautiful terrace and free coffee in the morning :).

After the check in, I went straight to the beach. I wanted to jump in the ocean. The sun was still shining and as a dropped my towel and phone, I ran into the waves. I felt the cold water shocking my body. I went further until I could jump in and dive into the water. I felt the cold getting into my body, my hearth pumping the blood through my veins. I AM ALIVE. I returned back and did yoga on the beach, to stretch my legs and back.

I wanted to explore the town and buy some food for a tasty dinner. Walking along the beach, I saw a few cafes/bars which were full by groups of 5-10 young adults. I followed the directions towards the center and found myself at the “entrance” of the old town. I realized already more people around me and for 6pm, the area was still quite crowded. I found an organic shop where I bought veggies, chickpea pasta and little packages of miso soup, which will be perfect for a warm soup on the trail. While walking through the old town and back to the hostel I realized, what Zarautz is. Many playgroups with groups of kids playing, the mothers chatting, the fathers further away cheering to each other with beer and old men around a table with a bottle of wine and probably talking about their old days. They all had one in common. No worries. I later also heard that Zarautz is a vacation town for the wealthy Spanish families. It seemed like a bubble, with no concerns about whats happening outside of the town.

My stomach decided it was time to get back and I made myself a big dinner with soup and veggies with quinoa. I bought a bottle of wine, in case someone sits outside. And yes, I met a young couple from Estonia. While having wine and tasty cheese, we talked about many things like hiking in Estonia and Europe, what we expect from our trip, what concerns and thrives us. It was again, one of those deep conversations. It makes it easy to know, that we might wont see each other again but at the end, on my last day in Spain, we set again together 🙂

A day full with great encounters, my first swim in the Atlantic since the last vacation in France and conversation which each of us enlightened us, I smiled and fall asleep.